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Thread: Tudor North Flag 91210N

  1. #1

    Tudor North Flag 91210N

    "I like to think of Tudor as Rolex's Tyler Durden – an outlet for all the impulses and urges the company has, but is just too darn responsible to carry out without fear of consequence"


    John Mayer said this of Tudor in his write up on the Black Bay, but I think this is more applicable to the more daring North Flag. With the North Flag Tudor is stepping out on a substantively different Horological world stage than their previous releases.


    While there are significant, and well documented, cultural shifts at Tudor that are represented in the North Flag, there are also a multitude of subtle design ques that have, thus far, been overlooked or ignored by the online community.





    A quick search of North Flag internet comments are, for the most part, opinions based off of Tudor's print and/or online ad campaign. "I speak not to disprove what they have spoke, but here I am to speak what I do know..." I stated in my Grand Seiko review that it is a watch that absolutely needs/deserves to be seen, held and worn to truly appreciate and the same holds true for the North Flag.


    Let's do this:


    The crown sits on a 40mm case and features a well done Shield and deep ridges for a secure grip and screws into the case without the spacer present in its Heritage siblings. The crown is also cone shaped....make no mistake this is a tool watch but right off the bat Tudor designs a subtle feature so that not everything is so "over the top."








    The bracelet is simply outstanding and uses a "H-style" link design with 3 adjustment holes in the clasp.
    Another design feature that mostly goes unnoticed is that the top of the inside edges of the center links are polished.








    You don't really notice until the light hits it the right way but when it does, it is a very nice effect. Sometimes you see the polish effect, sometimes you don't. There is "fine watch" trying to break out of a tool watch








    Again, notice the "hidden" polished area on the case. It is as if Tudor is hiding a "fine watch" underneath a tool watch.








    One last thing on the bracelet - it is a common internet rumor that you can't use aftermarket straps - that is a lie. It attaches using smaller springbars so a strap maker need only get the correct measurements and you're good to go. As this myth is corrected, I would bet we start seeing more aftermarket straps for the North Flag.





    Tudor recognized the bezel is a scratch heavy area and addressed it by incorporating a scratch resistant black ceramic bezel. The bezel is not as menacing as many think due to it slightly sloped and not wide as one would imagine. When looking down at your wrist you barely notice its small halo type ring around the dial.








    The matte dial is shows off muted eggshell finish with tall applied markers and numbers with large channels filled with lume. Very legible in all conditions with great depth due to the height of the markers and numbers








    The new MT5621 In House movement - many have derided it's "simpleton" design and appearance. No, it's not decorated, that would go against it's tool watch nature. But, as we have seen above, Tudor does enough to keep us interested....if you know what to look for.


    Silicon Hairspring - antimagnetic
    full balance bridge with a free-sprung Microstella balance wheel - 28,800 vph
    Chronometer Certified - COSC
    70hr power reserve - weekend goodness


    Deep Fluted edges to the scewdown back:





    Silicon harispring, full balance bridge





    Ceramic bearings for the rotor





    Small detail that I love - the difference and contrast in finishes between the rotor and the bridges





    Deep engraving on the movement and rotor











    Date aperture is unadorned but is stepped, a window frame in a window frame - another subtle touch from Tudor
    The power reserve indicator draws many opinions but I love it - it's neither distracting nor overpowering. It fits in balance within the dial set up.








    Very wearable, comfortable, accurate and soon to be versatile watch that incorporates several subtle features that belie it's tool watch designation. The whole is more than the sum of its parts and absolutely worthy of your consideration.


    Last edited by rockmastermike; Sep 12, 2016 at 07:33 PM.

  2. #2
    I like it a lot. It's a

    The only criticism is I'd prefer 'normal' lugs so I could leather it up.

    Good write-up and photo's Mike.


    (but then again I like quite a few Tudor's , but Rolex's just leave me cold )

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  4. #3
    Grr! Argh! meijlinder's Avatar
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    Excellent write up Mike! Definitely one of the most interesting Tudors out there. finishing really does look great.
    Really like the splash of colour from the seconds hand and the power reserve.

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  6. #4
    Thanks guys.

    Straps are not impossible to fit but will have to be custom ordered for now. No NATO options, though

    This is an under-appreciated watch that really shines if given a chance
    Last edited by rockmastermike; Sep 12, 2016 at 07:01 PM.

  7. #5
    This often gets compared to the Explorer and the Heritage Ranger....I have owned all 3:


    Ranger:
    Hour/minute hands are similar in shape but very different in construction
    Different case altogether
    Larger dial in the Ranger and it wears larger (in width)
    NF is a taller but not by much and not top heavy
    No date on the Ranger - not a strike against, just a difference
    Applied markers on the NF
    Bottom line: I could easily have both in the box without any thought of duplication - they are just too different.


    Explorer:
    EXP bezel is a scratch magnet
    EXP case has more refined shape
    EXP applied/polished numbers numbers
    Better clasp
    More dress/ than tool
    Bottom line: I could easily have both in the box without any thought of duplication - they are just too different.


    With these most common comparisons it's not an "either/or" proposition by "why not both (or all 3)?"

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  9. #6
    El bot. geoffbot's Avatar
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    What a sublime review - well done. Very nice watch too - I'd definitely consider it.
    Follow IWL on instagram! https://instagram.com/iwatchleague

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  11. #7
    Member Steppy's Avatar
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    Lovely watch, great review, and fantastic movement

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  13. #8
    Excellent review and photos

  14. #9
    Hall Monitor Samanator's Avatar
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    Nice job on the review.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    Cheers,

    Michael

    Tell everyone you saw it on IWL!

  15. #10
    Another Member crownpuller's Avatar
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    Excellent write up, elevated by some splendid photographs.

    Funny: I've never noticed the black ceramic bezel ring before
    Some people have opinions - The rest of us have taste.

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