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Jan 3, 2015, 07:50 PM
#21
Member
Those straps look great. I've been meaning to have a go at making one
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 01:53 AM
#22
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Post Thanks / Like - 6 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 01:58 AM
#23
Big Member
Looks good. I don't mind the colour in that orient. Personal tastes and all that. Colour is very easy to change though.
nice work
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 02:05 AM
#24
Thank you very much Chase...
yeah, my taste changes a lot to... i used to enjoy this distressed one hahaha! and now i cant stand it and put it in the drawer... =)
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Jan 4, 2015, 02:07 AM
#25
Big Member
See now I'm all about the distressed straps, send it my way lol
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Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 02:10 AM
#26
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Post Thanks / Like - 4 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 06:56 AM
#27
Originally Posted by
Iyonk
This one is tempting me to ask how you achieve the fold (at either end) - because it looks so damn fine.
Go through the process (if you will) of how you achieve the taper at the lug-end?
Is the pulpy/suedey (backside part of the) leather easy to thin down? - with a stanley blade presumably ? , scraped or cut away?
Is there a definite 'stop' when you get to the part that is folded over?
Do you then just glue it or does the stitch hold it tight flat against the back?
I'd love to see more pics of the actual manufacture
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 10:30 AM
#28
Member
Ive just started but so far what ive gathered is that you have to skive the folded bits. Thats the general way to thin it out. And then itll be easier to fold and once folded itll be a relatively even thickness to the un skived part. Then you glue and that shouldve secure enough, granted the proper glue and pressure applied. Stitching isnt that important its moreso for decoration. A skiver is in my mind very similar to a potato peeler. Just takes layers off dependent on your force and angle applied.
Yea the backside is softer to work with cause it havent been processed. If you dont like how its fuzzy just use some gum to flatten it all. I use the gum stuff to get rid of fuzz then i skive.
I would say just not skive it too much that the leather becomes too weak and cant hold the watch securely.
I think IWL needs a strap forum
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Current and Collection:
Rolex Submariner No-Date Ceramic, Rolex GMT Master II Ceramic, Rolex Datejust, Rolex Datejust II, Rolex Milgauss ZBlue, Omega Speedmaster Pro, Tudor Hydonaut, Tudor Blackbay, Tudor Pelagos
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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Jan 4, 2015, 11:08 AM
#29
As soon as there are more than 4 strap threads we'll look into it!
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Jan 4, 2015, 11:56 AM
#30
Originally Posted by
Seriously
This one is tempting me to ask how you achieve the fold (at either end) - because it looks so damn fine.
Go through the process (if you will) of how you achieve the taper at the lug-end?
Is the pulpy/suedey (backside part of the) leather easy to thin down? - with a stanley blade presumably ? , scraped or cut away?
Is there a definite 'stop' when you get to the part that is folded over?
Do you then just glue it or does the stitch hold it tight flat against the back?
I'd
love to see more pics of the actual manufacture
the crazy thing is i just use a sharpen paring knife (victorinox and zwiling) and manually slice it layer by layer until its thin enough... like told before, i have very basic tools.
this particular brown leather is very hard to slice since it is from hardened belt material.. but a very sharp knife definitely help (i have decent sharpening skill since i'm a knife guy)
thats how primitive my method is =)
oh and you have to glue first,and stich latter... the stich just to keep the end folded incase the glue fail (so far i dont face that issue)
basically its just learning by doing... i'm sure there are more fancier method on the net or youtube.