Shaving

[Raza]

I have to say, when I did shave (it's been over 5 years now, last time was August 2009), I felt like I could cut myself if I looked at a multiblade razor wrong. The safety razors and straight razors are a no go for me. My old college roommate uses a straight razor and he loves it. i just use a beard/stubble trimmer. I hate the way I look clean shaven.

[watchdaddy1]

My wife got me this set for Christmas this year.
Omega w/ badger shaving brush.Pretty cool accessories for men.

[93EXCivic]

I have just started and have Merkur HD. I bought a variety pack of blades from Amazon. That has about 6 or 7 different brands so I can get an idea of what I like.

As far as shave soap, I really like the Valobra almond shave soaps.

Although to be honest I only shave my neck and up on my cheeks any more since I have been sporting a beard. If I didn't I would end up looking full on wolf man.

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[T Bone]

OMG, how did I miss this thread? Oh yes, sleeping in....

Several replies covered a lot, but I'm going long on this one. When I took off my beard of 20 years (6 or so years ago), I too discovered how truly pricey Gillette's multi blade wonders were (for neck and cheek, one had lasted me a month).

Went looking and discovered the whole wet shaving "hobby" (for lack of a better term). Several above have it right (muddy250 is obviously at master level). I'll throw in a few basics, and one type that has been left out.

For Geoffbot, I'd suggest starting with a vintage Gillette. they can be had on eBay very inexpensively, and you can try several (or buy in lots, VERY inexpensive and you may even get a rare one in there). Then again, I amassed a collection of over 100. Failing the vintage, Merkur and Parker (as stated above) are some to look to.

Brushes, definitely get a badger brush. Edwin Jagger is a great choice for both novice and aficionado. Get "Best Badger" or better ("Silver Tip"), stay away "Pure Badger" (these generally have the fur gathered and the ends trimmed to shape, while the others are properly gathered with the natural ends arranged to make the brush, so provide a much superior tool for the job).

Soaps, Proraso is great, one of my favorites. I generally use the cream in a tube, though I did just buy a soap in a bowl from them (it is "Sapone", or Sandalwood). Another favorite of mine is Tabac (from Germany). This in the ceramic bowl. Yet another is Speick (also German) and this I buy the cream in a tube (also have a stick). There are loads more, and the British are a source for many of the world's finest (I am certain the above German brands will also be readily available to you).

Bowls, mugs etc. There are several ways to build lather. Many use what is called "Face lather", where you rub your (presoaked) badger brush in on the cake of soap (or apply cream) and simply work it into a lather on your face. I prefer the bowl/mug method, and have a custom ceramic shaving bowl from "Dirty Bird Pottery" here in the 'States. Also have a stainless Edwin Jagger bowl in my travel kit. For starting out, a great way to try this method is with a mug or cup from a dish set (I bought a few to try at a local charity thrift store for at or under $1 each). I found I liked a semi rounded bottom of the mug.

Razor types- there are so many. Double edge yes, and these are my main stay. I buy my blades on eBay or Amazon, and get 50-100 blades for $12-$20 depending on the blade. Try some varieties (buy some sample packs), once you find some you like you can buy in quantity and finally will save a ton of money.

Straight razors, I know a bit about but am a rank novice, so I'll leave those for the other fellas. One that is in between was shown earlier in the thread by Spooky (I think it was post 19). These are what are commonly referred to here as "Shavettes", and appear similar to a straight razor, but have disposable blades. I have a couple but have only dabbled with them so far.

Single Edge razors: One that has so far been left out of the discussion, and is VERY worthy of consideration. Some of my best shaves come from any number of myextensive collective of single edged razors. These use the blade type also commonly seen in pain scraping tools, and (so I hear) by users of cocaine. The blade has a heavy spline on the back edge folded over the steal, making it rigid and safe to handle. These are typically produced by Gem, and are a universal fit in many vintage types from just after the turn of the century, to the 1960s or so.

A few pics of some of my collection are in order...

This was Gillette's first razor, now referred to by Collectors as the "Double Ring". These were made from 1903 to 1906. I have 3, all dating to 1905. One was brought to it's shiney original finish (they were triple silver plated) while I left the other two in their state of patina as found.







After the Double Ring, Gillette simply removed one of the rings (presumably a cost cutting measure) and created what Collectors now call the "Single Ring". These continued production trough about 1930 or so, though many other models were introduced during these years also.

My Double Rings with some of my Single Rings



I'll end this one here as part one, and begin on part two.....

[Nokie]

You young folks are funny.

My Dad showed me how to shave with one of those double razors years ago, but I have since graduated to a straight edge.

I remember watching my Grandfather get excited about the that "New Shaver on a stick" razor that used those double blades.......

[T Bone]

Part 2...
The original Gillette's (called simply "The Gillette") were a 3 piece design, where the hollow handle had a long nut (the large barrel at the base, which extended up through much of the handle) that captured a long screw (which was welded to the blade cover) which captured the blade between itself and the blade base (which in turn was press fit onto the hollow handle).

Some variations included these rather large and hefty pieces from the 1920s called "Big Fellows". Same design as the originals, but way larger.





Gillette continued innovation and made many new types of razors, from even before 1910. There were the ABC and pocket versions, still a 3 piece design as were the originals, but slightly different in build. The blade cover had a short screw welded on it, which passed through the blade base (a separate piece now) and screwed directly into the threaded handle. This design continued for some years, along with the older type (then named by Gillette as the "Old Type").



This is the design still used on 3 piece razors by companies the likes of Merkur (I started this madness with a Merkur, pictured below- these are available with either the older open comb design, or more modern safety bar design as mine below shows).



Pic above, foreground is my modern Merkur, behind are some early Gillete Pocket Razors, a Big Fellow and a few other 3 piece Gillettes.

Above is one of the ABC types, under represented in this post, as I don't have a lot of pics of mine (amassed in latter days of my collection gathering). There are several different decorative handle styles and they also had matching "pocket" cases.

Old Type, this one commonly known as a "Bulldog" were common in the WW I era. Note the spiral handle knurling. These were commonly nickel plated, not silver as had been the case prior.



GIllette came out with a "new" design for their blades (patented of course) around 1930. Cleverly, the new razor would accept only their newer style of blades, which would also work in their older models. This prevented interchangeability with competitors blades on their newer razors. These new blades are essentially the same double edge blade profile we buy today from a multitude of brands.

It has been said that King Gillette (yes, his name was "King"!) had by this time perhaps the most recognizable face in the world. Every blade wrapper and every pack carried the likeness of the now world wide industrial giant, and it was said that there was no city or town, large or small, in any country in the civilized world where you could go and not find Gillette blades for sale or in someone's possession.

In the foreground is a Gillette "New", behind it an early black tipped "Superspeed" (more on those coming later).




The next major innovation from Gillette followed in the 1930s, the introduction of the twist to open razor (seen here is one of the earliest variants, the Sheraton- note the "teeth", or open comb, this one still predates the safety bar, their next innovation).





Looks like most of my pics of my '34 Aristocrat are missing, but it is a real beaut. They made them in the mid 30's (typically now referred to as a "34 Aristocrat"), it is pictured in the center of this bunch here (the pic will be shown again in part 3 with some details on the others). Note the open comb, gold plating, tto (twist to open) and spiral knurling, it is a fine razor and highly desirable.



That's it for part 2. I'll be back later with part 3 and get into some of the more modern Gillettes as well as single edged razors from the likes of Gem, Ever Ready and Star. Right now, I need to eat, and do some more work on the house!

[WWII70]

wow some real high-brow shavers here!

I don't have much to add to this thread. I go clean shaven Spring to Summer and do various facial hair in the Autmn and Winter - I've done a mustache, goatee and, in recently years, a full beard. I used to do trimmed stubble when Don johnson in Miami Vice was cool - maybe that's where my Ebel fascination comes from.





On disposable razors, I do think multi-blades are an improvement over the old single blades - a much clser shave.

[scottjc]

I love to be clean shaven but shaving irritates my skin so much that I can only shave a couple of times a week.
I've always used multi blade cassette razors and I'm seriously considering trying a double edge blade as general consensus is that it should irritate my skin less.
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[CanadianStraps]

As mentioned, everyone is different. Me, I have a heavy beard and a tough shave, a safety razor doesn't shave close enough for me. I've tried a few. I was a gilette customer for years but got fed up with the cost. I'm a Harry's customer now and happy.

https://www.harrys.com/

[muddy250]

I love to be clean shaven but shaving irritates my skin so much that I can only shave a couple of times a week.
I've always used multi blade cassette razors and I'm seriously considering trying a double edge blade as general consensus is that it should irritate my skin less.
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Correct.
Multiple blades do cause more irritation. When you have the technique down the sharpest blade, Feathers, will let you get as close as you ever need in two passes. I only need to shave every other day with these. Of course, the prep you do for a proper wet shave, soaking the beard, pre-shave lotions, using a cream or soap that works with your skin and after shave balms all contribute to the overall comfort as well.