Which comes first? Design or Movement?

[Matt]

Ironically I put movement first, but not for the most common reason. In downsizing I sold off the high dollar to service stuff and stayed with the easier or extended service period movements. This is why I have mostly all higher end ETA, Rolex or Omega. I do keep the non-chronograph Seiko Spring Drive since they were reasonable (About $400) to service even though it is at a 4 year interval, unlike the 5 year for a Rolex or 8-10 for an Omega. I did keep my Nomos with their movement also, but it is the exception.

The eight to ten year service cycle for an Omega is an urban myth. Shortly after launching the Cal.2500 Omega claimed a longer service cycle but almost immediately backed away from it. Certainly the escapement will remain stable for longer, but in many ways faltering stability can be seen as a service interval warning as the causes of the loss of stability are very likely to be correlated with the causes of increased wear. Or to put it another way, it doesn't matter how good the mechanism is, if the lubrication fails... Omega use the same oils as everyone else.

[Rdenney]

Yes, parts that wear on a conventional escapement don't seem to be the parts whose friction is eliminated with a coaxial escapement. I don't recall hearing much about pallet jewels or escape wheels wearing, but rather (mostly) auto wind components, cannon pinions, and balance staff pins and jewels. Those are no different in Omega movements.

That said, I've had watches unserviced for decades that didn't need parts replacement. The worst sin (as with clocks) is oiling a dirty movement. Better to run dry (in occasional use) than with fresh oil charged with abrasive dirt.

Rick "lots of myths about movement wear" Denney

[OrangeSport]

Design first for me. If I don't like the look of a watch I won't wear it, no matter how good the movement. I might then base a choice between two watches on the movement, if I like the design of both.

[OhDark30]

Mostly design, but I've enjoyed all my varied Soviet, Czech, Chinese, German, Indian and British movements :-)
Two watches I was *very* swayed by the movement:

gilded Junghans J88 in my 1950 civvie pilot chronograph


Vostok 2809 precision movement in my 60s Volna

[Perseus]

If I don't like the way a watch looks then I don't care what movement is inside. I enjoy the different movements I own, especially the hand winder in the Speedy and like everyone I would expect in-house at a certain price point. However, if two watches were identical except one housed a in-house movement and the other a ETA movement and costs thousands less I would much rather have the ETA and the cash.

[wschofield3]

Design first always, and movement has become more important as I've consolidated my collection. I currently have an in house German and Swiss movement example and would love to get another GS for my Japanese version, however, they need to make a chronograph that doesn't look like the pushers overdosed on radioactive waste, as a chrono is my next purchase.

I will not buy Chinese or Russian movements in anything over $200, but I know in reality that they have gotten considerably better. Must be a psychological thing having been the recipient of many duds over the years.

[Perseus]

I will not buy Chinese or Russian movements in anything over $200, but I know in reality that they have gotten considerably better. Must be a psychological thing having been the recipient of many duds over the years.

I'm in the same boat...I just don't have an interest in Chinese or Russian movements. While it may not be true it seems like having them serviced down the road could be a pain in the @$$.

[Samanator]

The eight to ten year service cycle for an Omega is an urban myth. Shortly after launching the Cal.2500 Omega claimed a longer service cycle but almost immediately backed away from it. Certainly the escapement will remain stable for longer, but in many ways faltering stability can be seen as a service interval warning as the causes of the loss of stability are very likely to be correlated with the causes of increased wear. Or to put it another way, it doesn't matter how good the mechanism is, if the lubrication fails... Omega use the same oils as everyone else.

Maybe not the 2500, but I'm talking about the 8xxx and 9xxx. Many changes in those to extend the service periods. I have it on good authority from about six Omega Service reps and managers that the 8-10 is real after spending several days at events with them. They tore down one of each to show me these. The service period is even documented in the AD book and AD are instructed to use the lower eight year figure. The lubrication point doesn't take in to account the use of DLC in these on friction surfaces so they don't require it in many places and it (oil) has been enhanced. They opened my 5 year old 8500 Ploprof. No service required. You can believe what you want but they showed me it (the oil, they even kept it in a separate case marked for these series) is different and all the enhancements that they passed along that they discuss at the dealer training convicted me to look at Omega more. Even the tear downs that Watch a Time does now in some reviews shows and discusses these enhancements. So my information comes directly from Omega.

Remember the early 2500 had issues but even the current have many of these enhancements so if they have the three level with the silicone balance they are made to take the extended service at least to eight years (this include the 3330 movement, but not the 3113 in the Bullhead). I confirm this with Omega before I bought my Mark II, verses the Bullhead.

[OhDark30]

Oops, forgot to mention Japanese, Swiss, German and French movements :-)
I've definitely enjoyed the diversity. My only ETAs have been in my Fortis Pilot Pro and some Swatches

Edit: And American! (Benrus and Timex)
Think that's it :-)