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Thread: Hodinkee - Introducing: The Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019

  1. #1
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    Oct 2014

    Hodinkee - Introducing: The Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019

    Quick Take

    We've just learned what the newest batch of Only Watch lots look like, and there are indeed some really eye-catching unique pieces to get excited about. In scanning the images of all the lots, the watch that grabbed my attention most was the Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019. The modern Breguet Type XX range is of course a historically oriented pilot's watch line inspired by military watches made in accordance with specifications set forth by the French Ministry of Defense back in 1954. According to Breguet, the military models were referred to as the Type 20, while the civilian range, which were sold, and continue to be sold, to watch enthusiasts, were designated Type XX.
    The unique piece that we have here today is a reissue of a Type 20 flyback chronograph from the 1950s that features a small seconds display and a 30-minute counter. Not only are the proportions of the watch, with its 38.3mm case, right, but the watch also features a bi-directional coin-edge bezel (as opposed to a graduated bezel) in accordance with how things were done with the early Type 20 military executions. The large onion crown is likewise in the style of an early Type 20 military piece. The dial is a soft bronze color with pillowy lume forming the Arabic numerals used to mark the hours. And probably the coolest thing about this watch is that the movement inside is a refurbished example of a great, historica, hand-wound Valjoux column-wheel chronograph, the cal. 235. The choice to use a flyback movement in the Type 20 was made in order to enable rapid timing of consecutive events such as take-off sequences.
    If you turn the watch over, you see that it has a closed back that is engraved "Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Pièce Unique." The strap comes in a soft-looking brown calfskin execution that is perfectly matched to the dial. We don't have a picture of this one-of-a-kind watch's presentation box, but we're told that it will have the shape of an airplane's wing.
    Initial Thoughts

    I think that this is probably the most beautiful of all of the Only Watch lots that have just been announced, though that is of course a subjective matter. Upon opening the email containing these images, I had a kind of sad feeling that there is only going to be one of these guys and that it's not a production piece. *Breguet Type XXs now use automatic movements, and we've seen evolutions of the line in the form of the the Type XXI and Type XXII, a chronograph whose escapement beat at 72,000 vph.*
    This unique piece takes the Type 20 back to its origins. While one can certainly appreciate the modern convenience of an automatic chronograph movement as seen in standard Type XXs today, the Valjoux cal. 235 that the owner of this unique piece will get is something special. I totally get the desire to have this watch be as historically accurate as possible (hence the closed caseback), though part of me wishes that it would come with an optional second exhibition caseback that would allow the owner to admire that vintage movement from time to time.
    The Basics

    Brand: Breguet
    Model: Type 20 Only Watch 2019
    Reference Number: 2055ST/Z5/398
    Diameter: 38.30mm
    Thickness: 13.90mm
    Case Material: Stainless steel
    Dial Color: Bronze colored
    Indexes: Luminescent Arabic numerals
    Lume: Yes
    Water Resistance: 30 meters
    Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin leather
    The Movement

    Caliber: Valjoux 235
    Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, fly-back chronograph
    Diameter: 12 lignes (27.07mm)
    Power Reserve: 45 hours
    Winding: Manually wound
    Frequency: 3 Hz
    Jewels: 17 jewels
    Pricing & Availability

    Price: Estimated at $35,000 - $50,000
    Availability: At Only Watch auction in Geneva on November 9, 2019
    Limited Edition: Unique Piece
    For more click here.


  2. #2
    The dial is too bland and visually dull , even at a tenth of the price.

    I’m surprised Breguet couldn’t come up with something beautiful
    Watches for SALE:
    <PRICE REDUCED> Nivrel 322 Black Dial:

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