This week we’re coming at you with an eclectic mix, after hunting the world over for the most exciting and unusual watches available. For the sports focused collector, we've got you covered with an untouched Universal Geneve Compax, a top-tier Tudor Submariner with military provenance, and an uncommon Sea-Sky from Favre Leuba. Should a smarter setting be more your scene, fear not, as we've got you covered, too, with a conservatively sized Jaeger LeCoultre, and an ineffably tasteful Omega chronometer. Nerdiness ensues.*
Universal Geneve Compax Ref. 22499

Typing the terms "vintage universal Genéve watch" into the eBay search bar rarely yields noteworthy results, but this isn't to say it's not worth a shot every now and then. Just the other day, I took that valiant leap of faith upon firing up my favorite website, and lo and behold, my pessimism was proven wrong. Without even having to scroll incessantly, I was delighted by this Compax, and delighted even more so by its condition.*
As the numbers on the caseback confirm, this is a Ref. 22499 Compax, which is one of the most sought after Compax references. The desirability of this already desirable watch is only intensified by its condition, which really is something special. Though the dial does have some minor spotting, this fades into insignificance compared to the even aging of the luminous compound, highly legible dial details, and absolutely razor sharp case. For the record, there are individuals who manufacture seemingly vintage, razor sharp Spillman cases, to replace old, tired examples, but I believe this to be original, based upon the seller, and the condition of the watch's other components.*
Though eBay might have their terms, conditions, and what have you's, it's a marketplace at the end of the day, meaning effectively anything goes, à la modern capitalism. This is why you’ll often see watches listed on the site in an auction style sale, that disappear after just mere moments. While the seller might've checked something along the lines of "Item Damaged," or "Error In Listing" to end the auction, we both know that someone likely made an offer to end the auction, and you know the rest. That's essentially what went down with this piece, in that it was listed, then no longer available, and interestingly, now listed again. My guess is the big spender who offered on it initially, backed out in the end, but given the quality of the piece, the seller needn’t worry about a thing.*
An eBay seller based out of Needham Heights, Massachusetts has this pieced listed in an auction that'll come to a close on Tuesday evening. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $4800. Find the full listing here.*
1978 Tudor Submariner Ref. 9401/0 with R.C.N. Provenance

We've discussed in the past that while objectively great, your run of the mill Submariner can get a little boring. Maybe boring is the wrong word, as that same "boringness" affords the watch a hefty helping of versatility, but when it comes to reading about watches, I want something exciting, and I'm sure you do too. That's why I thought I'd hit you with a Submariner this week, but no ordinary one as you'll soon learn. This one comes from Tudor, and was delivered to the Royal Canadian Navy. As previously stated, this is no ordinary Submariner.*
In that we're talking about a Tudor Submariner, the presence of snowflake style hands should come as no surprise, but what should are the dial's indices, which are more reminiscent of their Rolex counterparts. This rare dial and handset combination was once thought to be a modification carried out by R.C.N. watchmakers, but research and the study of older marketing materials has since proven that the configuration was in fact offered by Tudor. *
Canadian military Submariners are perhaps some of the rarest and least wholly understood of all the Tudor milsubs, given that relevant documentation and service ledgers are practically non-existent. Despite this, the community of military issued watch collectors is knowledgeable, tight-knit, and highly opinionated, offering a wealth of information to those interested. Should this piece do it for you, I'd highly recommend speaking with a military watch expert, who could help provide some more context regarding what exactly this piece got up to in its day.*
The Los Angeles dealer Craft & Tailored is offering this Tudor rarity on their website, where you'll find more photos and details. All of that can be accessed here.*
Omega 30T2RG Chronomètre

Defining what it is that makes a great watch is a tough task to consider, as a number of factors equate to horological excellency. With that said, this theoretical watch doesn't necessarily have to possess every last greatness-suggesting trait. Sometimes all it takes is one killer facet to set the whole thing off, which Omega was certainly aware of *back in the 1940s upon producing our next pick of the week. It's a time-only piece, but no lowly number by any means. In the minds of many, this is arguably Omega at their absolute finest.*
If you didn’t already know, the 30T2RG is globally lauded as one of the ultimate chronometer calibers ever made, and with good reason. Much like the newer calibers to be unveiled by Omega, the 30T2RG was committed to telling time in a manner both accurate and precise, earning it both "chronomètre" status, and international acclaim at observatory time trial events. In short, it's an incredibly well made movement, and perhaps one of the best the world ever has or will see. This notion is certainly supported by the long list of independent watchmakers who currently focus their efforts on reconstructing and finishing 30T2RG's.*
Movement aside, the other main attraction here is without question the present condition of the watch. I've seen countless other examples of the 30T2RG (to be exact, this is a 30T2RGSC, the center seconds version of the movement) Chronométre, but in yellow gold, I’m not sure I’ve come across a cleaner example. Everything from the case to the two-tone dial, to the dauphine shaped hands is absolutely immaculate, suggesting years of careful ownership. This, my friends, is how you want to buy a watch. *
Miami’s Menta Watches has this minty Omega listed on their site with an asking price of $9,500. Care to drool over higher resolution shots? Click here.*
Jaeger LeCoultre “Varsity”

When my head isn’t buried in the depths of auction catalogues and the sea of eBay tabs that is my web browser, I'm usually obsessing over anything remotely related to the world of design. Typefaces are no exception, providing endless inspiration while influencing aesthetics in the most drastic way possible. Generally, the typefaces found on wristwatch dials are pretty tame, with Arabic, Breguet, and Roman numerals accounting for the bulk of dial adornment, making the discovery of something unconventional all the more exciting. Such a discovery took place just yesterday, when I came across this next piece.*
You're looking at a smaller Jaeger LeCoultre cased in stainless steel, with what collectors commonly refer to as "fancy lugs." Fancy that! What sets this piece apart, however, is the typeface of the numerals found on the dial, which I'd argue has an almost varsity-like, letterman jacket text vibe about it. Better yet, all of the numerals are filled with luminous compound, that has not only aged evenly, but matches the luminous handset. This variant of the watch isn’t entirely foreign to me, but to see one surface again is definitely a treat.*
On a related note, it seems that as vintage watch collecting has become more mainstream, the term patina has been getting thrown around increasingly more carelessly, with nightmarish, beat-up watches being described as having patina. The patina is strong with this one, but in a very good way, that's true to the meaning of the term. I especially like how the central portion of the dial has achieved a darker tone than the outer track which contains the numerals, creating a pseudo two-tone appearance. For the money, I’m not sure this one can be beat.*
Sutton Hill Farm Country Auctions of Leicester will be offering this unusual Jaeger LeCoultre in their sale taking place today, with an estimate of £300 — £400. Find it along with the rest of the catalogue here.*
Favre Leuba Sea Sky

Mention the Valjoux 72 in conversation with watch collectors, and you're bound to spark discussion of Daytonas, early offerings from Heuer, and the like. One name that's less than likely to come up is Favre Leuba, though perhaps that's not as it should be. Despite having produced a number of lower grade watches for a period of time, the brand is behind some of the most compelling tool watches of the 20th century, and there's simply no denying that. For our last pick of the week, allow me to introduce you to a watch that ranks highly on my list of Valjoux 72-powered chronographs, along with chronographs in general — the oversized Sea Sky.*
This model was produced throughout the 1960s, and in relatively small numbers, before it would go on to be later replaced by the more unabashedly 70s offerings from Favre Leuba, that can't be mistaken as having emerged from any other era. Some of my favorite details include the numerous scales found on the dial, along with the decision to install polished steel hands, that while not the most legible are certainly attractive. All of this is surrounded by a black, bakelite bezel, which in the case of the example in question has been preserved wonderfully.*
Speaking of condition, there's a lot to like with this one. Though the 40mm case does look to have been polished at some point, it’s made up for by the spotless dial, and perfectly aged luminous compound which you'll find on both the dial and handset. While larger than most offerings of the same era, this Favre Leuba is everything and more you could want in a sports chronograph — vintage or modern.*
An eBay seller based out of Lincoln, California has this piece listed in an auction ending Wednesday, with a starting bid of $3,699. You also have the option to Buy It Now, for the price of $4,999. Find the full scoop here.*


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