If you’re a Doxa fan, and you were hoping for a SUB 200 T.Graph reissue at Basel earlier this year, you were likely understandably disappointed when the brand celebrated the 50th anniversary of their iconic dive chronograph with a limited edition in solid gold and priced at $70,000. Doxa, in one fell swoop, became the talk of the show and made their dedicated fans scratch their heads in frustration. Was this really how Doxa would celebrate the anniversary of the T.Graph? No, of course not. Here we are some months later, and Doxa is back with the recreation of the T.Graph fans were waiting for.

Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph*

  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: Orange
  • Dimensions: 43mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire*
  • Water Resistance: 200 meters
  • Crown: Screw down*
  • Movement: Valjoux 7734
  • Strap/bracelet: Beads of rice bracelet
  • Price: $4,900
  • Expected Release: Available for pre-order September 2

The SUB 200 T.Graph is a legend for its unique design and dedicated fanbase of professional and recreational divers. This is the type of watch (and Doxa is the type of brand) that develops a cult following through real lived experience. Word of mouth among divers and enthusiasts, far more than marketing, helped to build the Doxa legend. This, perhaps, is one of the reasons the solid-gold SUB 200 was met so coldly. Who, exactly, was it for? Certainly not the beating heart of the brand’s fanbase, who have developed a vibrant online community celebrating vintage and contemporary Doxa releases.
A vintage example. Image via doxa300t.com.

What we have here is an incredibly faithful recreation with a few interesting twists. While Doxa has incorporated some of the expected modern updates on top of the watch’s vintage appearance (a sapphire crystal and Super-LumiNova in a faux-patinated color), the movement beating away inside is something kind of special. The 300 pieces of the SUB 200 recreation that are to be delivered this year are powered by vintage Valjoux 7734 movements that Doxa has kept in pristine condition over the last 30 years. This is an exceptional hand-wound, double-register chronograph that is sure to provide a great deal of vintage charm to the owners of the reissued piece.

The Doxa aesthetic is not for everyone, but proponents love the small dial surrounded by a large cushion-shaped case, accented by Doxa’s unique no-decompression bezel. The orange dial, of course, is a huge part of the Doxa story and a bold color choice for the modern customer, but it too has a distinctly ’70s feel that owners of this watch will crave.
At $4,900, the SUB 200 T.Graph isn’t inexpensive, but it’s an interesting proposition when you consider vintage movement inside and the limited nature of this release. This is a watch that a lot of enthusiasts have been waiting for well before the controversial release of the gold version at this year’s Basel, so if you’re interested in ordering, be sure to jump on Doxa’s website on September 2 when pre-orders begin. Doxa

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