This week's Bring A Loupe will bring you a very early diver from Panerai – the type that many would in fact call a "Rolex" – and two dreamy watches from Patek: a GMT complication from the 1950's (yes, that was a thing) and a steel Calatrava. Those won't come alone; we also found a very early Heuer Autavia, a vintage Gallet chronograph and an amazing modern Lange. This is your Bring A Loupe for September 11, 2015, and you're gonna like it a lot.
A 1940s Panerai (Or Is It A Rolex?) Reference 3646 Type C For The German Frogmen

This piece offers a travel through time when Panerai was making only a handful of diver watches for the Italian and German armies – of course with the contribution from Rolex for the case and movement. In the 1940's the German had given instructions to produce an anonymous dial for its combat divers and to me, this is military watches at their best! Yet, more than 70 years later the design still nails it; the 47 mm case and highly legible sandwich dial explain well why Panerai is so popular nowadays. This is the real deal: a Rolex produced Panerai that made the whole cultural phenomenon happen. This particular example is nice because of the unsigned dial, original lume in hands, early metal o-ring, and caseback without, you know, any engravings that might scare your grandparents.
LunarOyster is offering this incredible Panerai for $120,000 here. This price is on the high side for a Type C 3646 but finding one in really good condition is difficult these days.
A 1950s Patek Philippe 2597 Travel Time

This looks like your typical Calatrava but look further and you will soon notice the two buttons on the left side of the case. You are seeing a very early GMT watch from Patek, manufactured in less than 100 examples in the late 1950s. The ingenious movement features an independently adjustable hour hand that you can set back and forth with the concealed pushers. The watch here is a first edition 2597, meaning that it does not display yet, the retractable GMT hand that would appear with the second batch of the 2597 reference and that you can now find in the modern Patek such as the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, that we reviewed here.
Andrea Foffi is offering this early and coveted Patek 2597 with a very crisp case here.

You no doubt are aware the steel Pateks from back in the day bring big money. But did you also know that self-winding steel Pateks are even rarer? Remember Ben's love letter to the steel 2585 that sold for $785,000? Here is your chance to get something similar for way less. This Calatrava reference 3466 might have been manufactured in the 1960's – it still wears amazingly well today thanks to its slim 35 mm case.
This rare Calatrava is offered on Instagram here.
A Second Generation Heuer Autavia With Just The Right Look

The first generation Autavias bring the biggest money, but to some collectors, the second generation is even better looking. These oversize lume plots, three registers and faded bezel give this example a great look. It is in great vintage condition with a very well preserved dial and all the original parts as it should.
At the time of publishing, bidding on eBay just broke the $10,000 mark here but given the strength of the Heuer market, it should climb even higher.
A Heuer Carrera 2447NST For Volvo

The Carrera 2447 NST is one of the hottest watches in the vintage watch world, and this is a super rare example of it. You might have to love Swedish automobiles to want to pay the price, but this is as special as a vintage 2447 comes. The Volvo dial Carreras are cult classics and the condition here is truly superb. Anyone feel like we should start a Kickstarter to buy this guy and his P1800 this watch?
The seller is considering offers above $13,500 on Chronocentric here.
The ORIGINAL Lange 1815 Chronograph

This is not a vintage watch per se. However, this first generation is so much more interesting than the later iteration that it is worth getting back to. So much that Lange actually reintroduced the pulsation scale on the rehaut – the inner bezel – for the new limited edition that we just covered here. In its 39 mm case you would find one of the most beautiful Lange chronographs, with still a slimmer profile than the Datograph and the Datograph Auf/Ab; you should thank the lack of the date module for that. Some collectors – and I plead guilty here – even consider this chronograph superior to the Datograph, given its more balanced dial and dimensions.
This stunning chronograph is listed at $30,500 on Timezone here.
1940s Triple Calendar From Gallet

Gallet became famous in the 1930 and '40s for their amazing MultiChron chronographs, whose reliability and precision allowed them to be adopted by many armed forces. The triple calendar chronograph here is cased in a 34 mm yellow-gold case with sophisticated lugs and it is exactly what it should be: a very elegant vintage piece with a great dial. Note that it also comes with a service receipt from 2012, always a comforting sign.
This MultiChron is listed on eBay here, and at the time of publication, bidding was still below $850.
An Affordable (Reverse) Panda Bulova Chronograph

As you might have noticed I have a thing for Panda, and reverse-Panda dials, and this Bulova satisfies the craving really nicely. It is in good condition with a great faded dial and bezel, which have turned to a light grey. The lume dots have a nice patina to them and the movement has had a recent service; the checklist on this one adds up nicely. I would just replace the aftermarket jubilee band with a nice leather strap and proudly rock this Bulova.
?This Bulova 666 (what a reference number!) is listed on eBay here; it was still below $200 as I typed those words.
Bidder Beware A Highly Incorrect Tudor Advisor

The Tudor Advisor reference 7926 is an amazing alarm watch that we reviewed in depth here. Unfortunately, the one currently offered on eBay represents more than an horological project given the amount of fake parts it showcases. First, the dial has been repainted (the shiny black gives away the job) and it also lacks the mention of lume at its bottom. Rolex/Tudor always indicates "T-Swiss-T " for tritium as used for the luminous dots of this later model of 7926. Then the alarm hand was repainted too – limit the paint job to the dial, I guess; but it should be fully red from its base to the tip. Finally, both the crowns are incorrect, as their shape does not match the rounded edge of the reference. In conclusion, avoid bidding on this shady 7926 listed on eBay here.