This week is heavily favoring vintage dive watches (with a couple strays), and we’re TOTALLY OKAY WITH THAT. Seriously, what else did you expect? We’ve got everything from watches and brands you might have never heard of, to big guys like Heuer and Tudor. Get ready, folks, because Market Watch(ing) is live!

Neil’s Picks

1975 Tudor Submariner Marine Nationale ref 94010

Forget the Milsub, here’s the real hidden gem. Tudor had a strong relationship with the French Navy, providing them with dive watches since the 50’s. In 1975, the year of this example, Tudor released the blue dial and bezel version of their MN Snowflake Sub. This model, reference 94010, was in production until 1982. For my tastes, the snowflake dial and hands are more appealing and far more unique than Mercedes hands on the standard*dial of a Rolex Sub. The many shades and fades of blue these watches can have are beautiful and look right at home on an oyster bracelet, NATO, or vintage leather strap. Fortunately, this one comes with several straps you can interchange.*What’s even better is that this watch comes with its original service papers.*I doubt this one will be around long. Luckily the fine gents over at Bulang & Sons happen to have two of these beauties for sale.
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Sinn 156

We’ll continue the military watch trend with this rare reference from Sinn, the 156.*Helmut Sinn designed this watch in 1987. It was based on his extensive experience working with the German military and repairing and improving their watches. One of the best aspects of this 156 is that it of course houses the legendary Lemania 5100 movement. We not only revere the 5100 but are big fans of nearly every watch we come across that features it. This movement just seems to lend itself to quality designs. The 43mm case is approaching the larger end of the case spectrum, but the moderate height and curved 20mm lugs (with lug holes!) will ensure it wears well on anyone, as with almost every Sinn watch. It’s hard not love the*classic Sinn dial layout and vibrant orange hands. This is advertised brand new, so this is sure to be a worry free watch for years to come.*With credentials like this at an affordable price, the Sinn 156 is definite winner for this week’s Market Watch(ing).
2,100 Euros (about $2,400)

Dean’s Picks

Alright, alright, allllllright. Man, these Fridays just keep rolling by, don’t they? Let’s start off by talking about a notable sale and then I’ll move on to my picks. The sale I’m referring to is Just about the most coveted vintage Heuer out there. Imagine for a second a vintage watch with a Valjoux 7730 chronograph, classic Carerra 2447 case, mind-blowing tripped-out dial colors, and probably less than 15 known examples. Well, that’s the first generation Heuer Skipper 7754 for you. The last recorded sale I’m aware of was probably the Crown & Caliber eBay sale, which fetched a number in the high teen’s — Heuer fanatics would know better than I do about recent sales prices. Anyhow, one changed hands recently, landing in the collection of one @jason.fried. I don’t know what he paid, but I’m “hella” curious. I mean, it could be $25k, or it could be $50k. I have no idea. The watch is that rare and in demand. If one hit the open market I’m sure you could get a couple of Honda civics for it, or at least half of a matte dial Sub.
Heuer Skipper ref 7764

That brings me to the watch currently for sale at Christie’s chronograph sale, a nicely curated little piece of marketing, designed to move some watches (I assume). My pick of the lot would be the second generation Skipper, the reference 7764. This Skipper is housed in the Autavia 7763 compressor case, and while not nearly as rare as the “Skipperera”, it’s still not an easy watch to find. Apparently this particular Skipper is part of an early series of 7764s that had a white sweep seconds hand. People with much more knowledge on the subject take a deep dive into the particulars here. Again, I’m no expert on the intricacies of vintage Heuer, but I believe the $13,900 they are asking at Christie’s is a fair price, in fact, I’d be surprised if it hasn’t sold yet.

Damas Marinograf

What else, what else? Let’s see. Well, we can always go back to the well of funky vintage divers, right? What’s cooler than a funky diver in a compressor case with an internal bezel and heavy patina? Nothing. That’s what. Matthew Bain has this incredible Damas Marinograf up on his site listed for $4,900. What’s a Damas you ask? F’d if I know. It appears to be another of a plethora of smaller (cheaper) Swiss watch brands that went “tits up” in the quartz crisis. Listen, the look of this watch is excellent and if it sings to you then maybe it’s worth close to $5K, but I’d be inclined to try to bargain a little bit.

Isaac’s Picks

Movado Super Sub Sea

Here on the site, a few of us have discussed a watch that was made by two different manufacturers – Zenith and Movado – many a times. The watch I speak of is the Super Sub Sea, and if you know anything about what I look for in my watches, you’ll know that this one has it all. It’s got a sophisticated yet equally robust movement (the Zenith 146HP), functional roots, and just the right amount of quirk with those exceptional orange hands. With all this said, you still always have to make use of your loupe, and look further into the details of an example before getting too carried away.
This particular example has a lot going for it with its original crown and bracelet, but there are a few things that make me have a hard time justifying the owner’s current asking price. For one, the lume condition is less than perfect, seeing as we’ve got a crack going through the hour hand’s application; and the color of the hour and minute hands, along with the 12 o’clock position of the inner bezel, don’t match the rest of the watch. Secondly, we’ve gotta remember that this is a Movado we’re dealing with here, and not its Zenith-branded cousin. Nice watch, but the price is just a little too optimistic, in my opinion.

Tudor Submariner reference 79090

Because of current price tags, for some, vintage Rolex can be a bit off-putting. That’s why when I find a nice piece at a reasonable price, I think it deserves a little exposure. Though some Tudor prices have indeed taken off like their coronet counterparts, there are still a few great vintage/semi-vintage references that can be had at relatively affordable numbers. This is one of them.
Kirill of Lunar Oyster listed this blue Tudor Submariner (Ref. 79090) the other day, and I think it’ll move rather quickly. It’s all original, bears a decent amount of patina, and the case is still quite nice and thick — so you’ve basically got all boxes checked right there. On a personal note, I really need to stop looking at these Tudor Subs, since I keep finding a bunch of reasons why I love them. Dangerous stuff I tell you, dangerous stuff.

Shane’s Picks

Rumanel Datostar

I’m going to be upfront here. I had never heard of either of my picks this week — I just thought they were awesome. First up is the Rumanel Datostar. There’s not a whole lot of info out there on this watch, but it’s a classic super compressor case diver. I love the aging on the dial and hands, as well as the white inner bezel. Although the 42mm case seems to have seen too much of a polishing wheel, I still think it’s worth a look. The movement seems clean, and the $550 price tag is a good starting point for a little haggling.

Lexon Yema Meangraf Super

I’ve seen this one for sale for a couple of weeks now, and very nearly included it in last week’s picks. This time around, I’m not skipping over it. I’m familiar with Yema, but not familiar with Lexon — and apparently neither is the internet. I had a hard time finding any useful information, but I can venture a guess that it Lexon was a sub-brand of Yema. At any rate, here’s a Lexon Yema Meangraf Super that I’m falling in love with. It has perfect matching patina on the dial and hands, and the case is in outstanding condition. I’d definitely want to see the Valjoux 7734 before jumping on it, but that’s basic buying homework. Not only is the case in great condition, but it’s the perfect size at 39mm, and it has a really unique design. They don’t make ’em like they used to. I believe the seller was asking for around $2,000 at some point, but is not accepting offers. To me, this is a $1,500 (at most) watch in this condition.
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