This week's Bring A Loupe will explore a new side of horology, featuring thin and elegant watches that would go so well with a smoking jacket. Expect some great pieces from the most renowned manufactures at tackling slimness issues – Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget of course, but also Rolex, with the forgotten Veriflat. For the chrono addicts, get ready for an outstanding Heuer Autavia and a very full set Rolex Daytona. This is your Bring A Loupe for September 25, 2015.
Foreword: the case size of the selected watches might appear tiny on paper, however you should consider that a flat profile always increases the perceived dimensions on the wrist, as illustrated by Jack's review of the 36 mm Vacheron Constantin Ultra Fine 1955 here.
A Surprisingly Slim Rolex, The Veriflat

With all the iconic tool watches you know of, Rolex would probably not be the first manufacture to spring to mind when considering a thin dressy watch. However, in the 1950's Rolex actually offered such pieces under the Veriflat and Verislim branding. Both references are relatively unknown within the company's gigantic line, however they might very well represent its most elegant offering ever, with specific hand-wound movement, the caliber 1000, and, in the case of the Veriflat, a slimmer 34 mm Oyster case. The Veriflat here comes with the most desirable dial, featuring the elongated crown and the chronometer certification above the small seconds register.
The UK auction house Fellows will auction this rare Veriflat – reference 6512 – on September 29th at an estimate of £2,000 to £3,000 or around $3,000 to $4,500. You can check the detailed listing here; it properly mentions the marks in the small seconds register.
A Rose Gold Altiplano From Piaget, Full Set

Piaget is pretty much the leading reference for ultra-slim watches under the Altiplano line, setting records for the thinnest mechanical watch at the time, and thinnest hand wound flyback chronograph – we reviewed each of these striking pieces here and there. This Altiplano – also auctioned by Fellows – comes in a rose gold 38 mm case, and since we are talking tiny numbers, its mechanical movement is only 2.1 mm thick!
This modern Altiplano is provided with box and papers, it is estimated at £3,000 to £4,000 or around $4,500 to $6,000 here.
A Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin

Jaeger-LeCoultre is another shining star in the world of ultra-thin watches and this reference 1925 easily explains why. This seemingly simple watch exhibits an impressively balanced design through its 34 mm case and its atypical dial. Indeed, the double indexes at 3,6,9, and 12 o'clock are applied while the others are engraved, bringing an unexpected depth into an ultra-thin watch, by definition on the flat side. Jaeger's caliber 818 has demonstrated an impressive reliability and an undeniable engineering proximity to two of the most famous ultra-thin movements – the Vacheron 1003 and the AP 2003, a testament of Jaeger's involvement with those two manufactures. Note that the controversy is strong regarding the actual input level from Jaeger-LeCoultre but this is another subject.
A French collector is offering this rare Ultra-Thin for 3,200€ or around $3,600 here. Note that the dial has some slight traces but it is untouched, which rarely happens with this model.
A Limited Edition Royal Oak From Audemars Piguet

"A body of steel with a golden heart," this is what allowed the Royal Oak to storm into the watch world back in 1972. The first 1,000 pieces, the reference 5402ST serial A, are highly coveted, especially with an original dial that has sustained the test of time. The 5402 was quickly nicknamed the Jumbo given its large and thin case – 39 mm large and 7 mm thick. Interestingly, Audemars Piguet later released a limited edition back in 1992, the reference 14802. As pictured here, this late reference is a carbon copy to the original 5402, only replacing the full case back with a sapphire glass to allow a glance at the thin automatic movement. Note that we now find the same modification in the current iteration of the Jumbo, the reference 15202; for a pictorial comparison from Ben, see here.
This Royal Oak reference 14802 is available with the original box for 14,500€, or around $16,000, here. If interested, you should nonetheless enquire about the trace on the bezel above 2 o'clock.
A Patek Philippe With Interesting Lugs

I could not omit Patek from this casting of elegant watches given the importance of the Calatrava line. The model here is encased in small-ish case of 33 mm but it features very attractive faceted lugs that we can find past the first iteration of the reference 2568. Those are very reminiscent from the sumptuous case of the Chronometre Royal from Vacheron Constantion in the late 1950s. The pin buckle constitutes another interesting detail here: it is named the "Stern buckle" after Henri Stern, at the time heading Patek's operations in the U.S., who designed its characteristic pointed shape. That buckle and the HOX engraving on the movement prove that this watch was originally sold in the United States.
This Patek Philippe reference 2568 is listed on eBay here, at the time of publishing the bidding was just over $2,800.
A Rolex Daytona With Complete Full Set

Looking at this picture allows you to realize that the owner of this Rolex Daytona was a particularly meticulous fellow: he not only kept the original box and papers from his purchase back in 1976 but he also preserved the service receipts and the metro ticket that had allowed him to go to the dealer some 40 years ago. Such an attitude also explains how he took good care of the watch, as its condition shows. This is exactly what we expect in a good looking Daytona reference 6265 with metallic bezel and screw down pushers. Also note that the dial features the sigma sign on both sides of the tritium indication, which tells that indexes are in solid white gold.
The Italian seller Tempus is offering this very complete Daytona here.
Notable Sale Of The Past Week: An Early Heuer Autavia Gone In A Flash

I had just noticed this very sweet and early Autavia that it was already on hold, demonstrating again the current appeal of Heuer among collectors. This Autavia found by Rarebirds was indeed in a great condition: besides the re-lumed hands, the case and bezel were greatly preserved. Note the large tritium dots on the dial indicating that you are facing a reference 2446 second generation.
You can see the listing here.