SOTC The road to WIS epiphany and what happened afterwards

[tempocalypse]

With a bit of prompting from geoffbot, I thought it would be a good idea to do my first SOTC post, partly just to share some pictures of my collection with the good folks of this forum, and partly to gather my thoughts on where everything is at and figure out the way forward.


edit: HAH! I hit forum character limit. Have to split this lol.
edit: Also apologies to anyone coming in unwarned and faced with like 50 pictures loading!


I’ll also try to organise some thoughts on my current wish-list towards the end and of course welcome any thoughts and suggestions from members here.


Below is a snapshot of the entire collection (minus a B&M Capeland out for service)





From left to right


Breitling Navitimer
Tag Heuer Aquaracer Chronograph
NOMOS Glashütte Zurich Weltzeit
Glashütte Original Panograph
Rolex Submariner 5513
Azimuth Mr. Roboto
Lemania Chronograph
Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow 1957 re-edition
Sinn 356 II Fleiger Copper
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Squellete Tradition
Casio G-Shock DW5600
(out for service) Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph


The road so far


I have always been into watches as far as I can remember; my first watch was an airline gift for kids which the crew gave me on a flight to London back when I was about six years old, a short stubby little Singapore airlines 747 shaped case on a rubber strap with a pullout nose hiding a digital display.


It was in my late teens that I began to get interested in mechanical watches and I got to choose one for my 18th birthday. That watch was the Tag Heuer Aquaracer Chronograph you see above. Then when I graduated from University I got to choose one more watch as well and this was the Breitling you see above. I was quite happy with both of these watches for quite a while. A few years after my first job, I bought my first watch with my own money, the ML Squelette. The Capeland followed soon.


Still at this point, I hadn’t descended into full on WISdom. I was largely ignorant of the histories of the brands beyond that which you find on their websites and didn’t know all that much about movements or all the other things that we obsess about on these forums. A few years passed without buying watches and all was well…


However, a few years back I discovered resources such as Hodinkee and started lurking on forums at which point I started to pick up a real education on watches. This led to the discovery of Nomos and what I shall call the “WIS Epiphany Event” starting with the acquisition of the Zurich Weltzeit and everything else followed.


I’ll post a few pictures and some thoughts on each watch individually.




Rolex Submariner
ref 5513
circa 1968


This the watch that gets the most wrist time! I’ve had it for a year now and I just do not get tired of it. The faded bezel is the star feature appearing light grey in bright sunlight and various darker shades depending on lighting conditions. The lume on the dial and hands have developed a not quite yellow but noticeable creamy patina. It is incredibly versatile and dresses up (slightly) on the oyster bracelet and dresses down well with a number of vintage style leather straps including Natos. Theres not a huge amount to say here except that I absolutely love everything about this watch. If I were forced to choose a favourite… this might be the one.














Glashütte Original Panograph


My comments on the submariner might seem an insult to this far more expensive watch! The Panograph is however up there amongst my favourites and well it should. Wearing the Panograph feels like an occasion every time I strap it on and that movement is one of the most attractive looking out there.


Some background on this watch though, my dream high end chronograph remains the A Lange & Sohne Datograph (1st version) in Platinum. When I bought the Panograph last year, members on another forum where I discussed it suggested that I might regret the purchase as I would always want the Datograph.


So nearly one year on how do I feel? I can honestly say that I don’t regret it. I wanted to splurge on something special to celebrate a significant year for me both personally and professionally and the Panograph was within reach ( a decent discount plus european VAT refund helped a lot!) whilst a second hand 1st gen Datograph was substantially more. The Panograph has satiated my desire for a mega chronograph. I would still like a Datograph one day but I am willing to wait a few more years and am more keen to add a couple more vintage Rolexes and such before spending such a large amount on a single watch again.


One key thing about the Panograph is that it also fulfilled my want for a gold dress watch. Whilst its no Calatrava, its unique dial arrangement hides the complexity and sportiness of a sub dial chronograph layout and is quite elegant and formal looking.


I will actually post a full review in the high end sub forum soon with lots of pictures.











NOMOS Zurich Weltzeit.


My first watch from an independent and with an in house movement, the Zurich Weltzeit. Its been a couple of years and the Nomos is a regular fixture on my wrist. Its a great dual time zone watch and a great travel companion (I like that the local time is on the main dial unlike some more expensive dual time watches like ALS Time Zone or the JLC Master Geographic). The layered dial is a thing of beauty and the layout is complex without seeming cluttered. Understated and elegant it also works as a dress watch.


The movement too is very attractive. I especially like the contrasting finish, Nomos uses what they call a black gold finish on the main plates which has an interesting dark grey tone which contrasts with the bright rhodium plated rotor.














Omega Speedmaster 1957 Broad Arrow re-edition


This is the 1999 reissue of the very first speedmaster, the original broad arrow (quite faithful except for a larger 42mm case, the modern 1861 movement and luminova). Something of an impulse purchase, I got a great deal on this due to recent Euro depreciation and I’ve had it nearly a month. Every Chronograph fan needs a speedy and I was planning on getting a regular Speedy pro this year. However the broad arrow with its brushed bezel and on a leather nato had an irresistible vintage look to it. A think I still need a speedy pro at some point but I should put it on the long term list and probably look for a vintage caliber 321 pre moon instead of a 3570. Little annoyed that this one was the strap version (came with a black croc and deployant) but even more than the Rolex I think I like the broad arrow on a leather Nato.












Lemania Chronograph


Dating back to 1948 this 36mm own brand Lemania chronograph uses the legendary caliber 2310 (patek base for some perpetual calendars, Omega 321 moon watch) which is still going strong today in several high end watches. The dial has been re done but done well and an interesting buy for a few hundred dollars. The movement is likely surplus from a batch made for Ebel which Lemania then cased themselves. An interesting piece of horological history. Don’t wear it much as the 18mm strap I bought for it doesn’t quite work for me. I need to get a new one. It also might need a service as the chrono minute counter sometimes resets to + or - 1 minute instead of to zero. I think its a keeper even if it doesn’t get a lot of wrist time.










Azimuth Mr. Roboto


Mr Roboto is a nerdy, crazy weird object. I only wear it occasionally but I do love it. It brings a smile to my face and has a very well made and interestingly detailed case. Legibility is not its strong suit though. Its place in the collection is not 100% guaranteed in the long term but for now I’m certainly not tired of it. The original strap seen here was very thick, stiff and difficult to tighten, and even harder to take off. Got a thinner black strap for it as seen on the group pic.

[tempocalypse]

Sinn 356 II Fleiger

My go to tough watch. Relatively inexpensive and a very interesting copper dial. I usually wear it with a green nato these days. Recently I’ve not been wearing it much in every day situations, pulling it out only for activities that call for such a watch.







Casio G-Shock DW5600

I’m not a huge G-shock fan unlike many on the forum. However there is something to be said for a cheap watch that you absolutely do not need to worry about even if it were destroyed (and it most likely wouldn’t be anyway because its a g-shock). I went for the less chunky 80s retro look than the tougher looking ones. Thing is, most of the time in a g-Shock type situation I end up reaching for the Sinn!




The below watches all date from before the WIS Epiphany event :P


Tag Heuer Aquaracer Chronograph

My only true diver, as in a watch to actually take diving; I’m not taking the vintage sub underwater! These days I only wear it for water related activities. I haven’t been on a real scuba dive in a couple of years though. I hope to resume scuba soon and would like a nicer diver like a black bay. However, this was my first mechanical watch and an 18th birthday present. It stays with me even if in a drawer. Nowadays I wear it on a fabric Nato exclusively.





Breitling Navitimer

A graduation gift, I will definitely keep this for sentimental reasons. Even after the “WIS Epiphany” I used to wear it quite bit alongside the Nomos. However it has gotten very little wrist time since the arrival of the Rolex. I used to absolutely adore this watch but now I find the gold on white look to be less attractive and appropriate than the tool like standard black dials. Evolution of taste I suppose. It got a new lease on life with the “bomber jacket leather” distressed strap from strappedfortime, its a very cool looking strap but I just don’t love the watch quite like I used to.




Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph

This is the older 38mm version ( I think the new flyback is 44mm). Of all the pre WIS epiphany watches, this is the one I like the most. I still like to wear it on a leather nato and the domed acrylic crystal is quite attractive. Unfortunately out for a service but I’m looking forward to its return.





Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Squelette


Used to be my oddball “fun” watch. Been replaced in that role by the Azimuth and is possibly heading towards the chopping block. A major annoyance was a particularly loud unitas movement exacerbated by skeletonisation and double sapphire crystals. It can be heard from quite a distance inside a room if no one is speaking. One could be mistaken for a (admittedly cartoony) terrorist with an old timey ticking time bomb.

[tempocalypse]

The wishlist

So where to next? Here’s what I’ve been thinking about.

A Rolex 1675 GMT Master with a faded bezel.
Its just cool! the 5513 has really turned me towards faded bezels.



Rolex 16520 Zenith Daytona white dial

I find the 4130 movement in the current daytona very cool and want one too! I like the current black dial version but I like the white dial zenith daytona even more. Anyway I think I’ll wait for a while on 4130 powered Daytona, maybe rolex might even release one with a cera-chrome bezel in steel, after all they have done it in platinum.



Explorer II white dial.

Love the GMT movement and I believe the size of the main plate is the only difference between the EXPII and the GMTIIc movement. I like the BLNR but not 100% convinced. And with a pepsi white gold GMT released recently maybe they will do a coke bezel in steel soon. So Might as well wait on a modern GMT master. On the other hand I absolutely love the explorer II. The large orange hand, the super maxi dial, the thick hands it just works for me.



Milgauss Z-Blue

The new dial looks very very cool. I like how the millgauss is the quirky odd one in the line up, elegant but more youthful than the datejust. I have developed a taste for vintage rolex now but the rock solid feel of a modern rolex is also alluring. The Milguass and the EXPII are occupying my thoughts a lot.



Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue
Tudor Black Bay (red bezel)

Not much to say on these two that hasn’t been said. Modern rolex quality cases with a vintage vibe. Colourful yet tasteful. Want both! The black bay would likely live in the 5513’s shadow though so theres that to consider.




Beguet Marine 5817ST
Steel with a silver dial. Just look at that dial! I find the marine more interesting than a Royal Oak or Vacheron Overseas. And with further Euro depreciation and a vat refund could be had for a reasonable price.



Breguet 7027
In yellow gold. I have lusted after this watch well before the “WIS epiphany” way back when I thought I would never even consider spending this kind of money on a watch. Thing is it is creeping towards a rather high price point. I could potentially regret spending this much instead of saving up for a Datograph.



Panerai PAM 425

Love the dial, the case, the dome, the wire lugs. Never tried it on but 47mm is big…
The Azimuth is also massive but the PAM is more expensive and I would want to wear it more frequently. Wire lugs could mean it wears smaller though?

A good second hand bargain would be more attractive than new.



Speedmaster Professional
caliber 321 pre moon column wheel speedy. What is there to say?



Bremont Martin Baker III
Alright, Bremont is in the naughty corner with a lot of WIS since their “in house” announcement but I find the MB series of watches to be very handsome looking. But would it have a long term place in the collection?



In the long run of course there is that grail

Datograph 1st generation



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CFR]

Lovely collection!

Thanks a lot for sharing.

[FuzzyB]

Fantastic collection! I could be very happy with most of those watches.

And if you ever get bored of Mr. Roboto, my nerdy little wrists would be happy to give him a home.

[geoffbot]

Superb collection! Well done

I remember Mr roboto - what a crazy cat. Don't get rid of him!

[93EXCivic]

That is quite a collection.

But I love that sub!

[tempocalypse]

Lovely collection!

Thanks a lot for sharing.

That is quite a collection.

But I love that sub!

Thanks guys!

Fantastic collection! I could be very happy with most of those watches.

And if you ever get bored of Mr. Roboto, my nerdy little wrists would be happy to give him a home.

Haha, sure will keep that in mind.

Superb collection! Well done

I remember Mr roboto - what a crazy cat. Don't get rid of him!

Roboto isn't going anywhere any time soon!

[wschofield3]

Super collection! I especially like your German representatives, the GO, Nomos and Sinn!

[iyonk]

Stunning Thread! thanks a lot for sharing!